The concept of ‘Rivaayat’ had me fascinated from the word go. In the current trend of fusion cuisine and run of the mill buffets, the very idea of bringing traditional home cooking to 5-star dining is novel indeed. Thus when I was invited to a Chef’s table at Dakshin Rivaayat at Trident, Bandra Kurla, I was eager to find out what gastronomic buds would be awakened by the vegetarian cuisine from the Southern states of India.
For a person like me who views vegetarian food with some degree of “would have tasted better if fish had been added to it”, I was a little wary about whether I’d actually enjoy the experience.
And then we met Chef Ashish Bhasin, Executive Chef of the Trident at BKC, who introduced us to Shri Bala..and my, we were floored by her passion. She did not believe in any new fangled “adjustments” where cooking is concerned. Shri Bala, the Chartered Accountant who had brought her grandmother’s recipes to the Trident, took charge, as in completely took charge, where no other opinion mattered.
First came delicately presented Mini Pops, made with a rawa base, served on a bed of spicy salad. Amazingly wonderful with a touch of spice which brought the taste buds alive and well prepped for further tasting. The Vada (chana base and looked just as if it had been brought out somebody’s kitchen where it had been lovingly prepared) and the Mirchi Bhajji followed. The Bhavnagari chillies had a light stuffing of chopped onions and green chillies with a dash of tamarind chutney. It never fails to surprise me that fried Bhavnagari chillies find their way into so many cuisines and are relished by everyone who can take a spice hit. Among the appetizers, I enjoyed this the most although my table companions loved the Mini Pops more.
The salads were served…both the salads were the epitome of healthy food, such was their freshness. The Groundnut Sundal which was soaked and steamed groundnuts, coconut, two types of chillies, sesame seeds, was absolutely refreshing. The Moong Dal Salad made of was simple – whole yellow moong soaked with thickly grated carrots, finely grated green mango lending a flavourful mouthful. Perfect as Navratra fare was the thought that crossed my mind.
The first soup that arrived was bright red in colour with a familiar tangy whiff. Kokum Soup – very tangy and a touch spicy, and my palate took a while to get used to it; while I did a few spoonfuls, it was much too tangy for me. The Tomato Rasam touched my heart though, and I am not exaggerating at all! The simple humble rasam had been turned into a work of culinary art with bits of sundried tomatoes fried in ghee finding its way into every mouthful. The purity of taste, the distinct notes of freshness from the sundried tomatoes and the wafting fragrance of ghee made music in my mouth!
But there was so much more to come.. I was introduced to the combination of Parappu Podi (a powder) which was to put on Ponni Rice over which ghee was to be poured, and one eats it with the very spicy Gongura Pachadi (a spicy chutney made with sorrel leaves). Very traditional indeed. The Bise Bele Bath arrived…common enough, till one tries this one from Shri Bala’s kitchen. Simple and simply delicious, no confusion of too many vegetables finding their way into it..simplicity personified with just green peas and beans thrown in; to me this was the star among all the dishes served that evening.
Bise Bele Bath – excellent (two veg green peas and beans). The mandatory Avial was served, prepared strictly as per tradition with green vegetables only, I found yam, cluster beans, drumstick in it and I was told that carrots are “not allowed” (Shri Bala is extremely particular about what is allowed and what isn’t in her kitchen; the passion is to be seen to be understood).
I gave the rice and rasam which followed a miss and chose to eat puffy hot Appam with the Chettinad Vadai Kuzumbu – vada curry which was a touch tangy and quite a bit spicy and just the kind of taste I love; Chettinad Style Enna Kathirikai Kuhambu – little round brinjals cooked with sesame seeds served with appam was relished too.
Too stuffed with good homestyle food, it was time for desserts. The Akkaravadisal – broken wheat with lots of ghee and lots of dry fruit was definitely tasty and had the ring of tradition and festivity around it, pure and rich in taste and ingredients, it was indulgence to level infinity! The funnily named 7 Cups Barfi was served, the richness echoed in the finest quality of besan, ghee, sugar, grated coconut, cashew nut powder, milk. I didn’t want to try the Wheat Dalia Payasam or the Suji Gulab Jambul as I was much too full. Am sure they were delicious too.
Dakshin Rivaayat touches the right notes in bringing grandmothers’ recipes out of the kitchen and into the open for all to savour. The purity of the vegetarian fare will definitely find some long dormant taste buds awakened through this gastronomic journey, even for those like yours truly who have very little to do with vegetarian food for that matter.
Hadn’t expected to to enjoy the Southern Symphony as much as I did..thank you Chef Bhasin and Shri Bala for doing away with stereotypes about food from the South States.
Dakshin Rivaayat was on from 8th April to 14th April.
Ratings out of 5
Food: 4.0 | Ambiance: 4.0 | Service: 4 | Overall: 4
Meal per person without Alcohol: Rs. 2200 plus taxes | Alcohol: Not part of the buffet | Credit Card: Yes|
Timing: 12 30 pm – 3 pm & 7 30 pm – 11 00 pm | Wheelchair access : Yes
Address: C-56, G Block, Bandra Kurla Complex, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400051
Telephone : +91 22 6672 7651 ; +91 22 6672 7610
Disclaimer: This review was done on an invitation from the restaurant. Due judgement and care has been applied by the author to remain objective and unbiased in the review, but readers need to consider this review keeping this fact in mind.
