The old world charm of South Mumbai and Colaba during the day is marked by its iconic Irani cafes and old world restaurants like Café Military, Leopolds, Café Mondegar, Lings Pavillion, Ideal Corner etc. However at nights, the same charm is taken over by their counterparts like Pizza by the bay, Gaylord, Shiv Sagar etc. The newly opened branch of the well-known Saltwater café at Churchgate is a welcome addition to this list.
I decided to visit this newly opened joint on a Tuesday evening thinking that it would be a slow evening and I would get ample time to review the dishes, speak to the staff and the chef and make use of my time, but when I got there at 8.30 pm I was surprised to see the restaurant completely packed and teaming with a hot and happening South Mumbai crowd. The décor of the restaurant is quite elegant with bay windows overlooking the street, the interiors not overly done but with a very soft and elegant look and at the same time maintain its cool comfortable ambience.
The menu follows the same trajectory set by its predecessor in Bandra with a few vegetarian additions to appease the South Mumbai vegetarian crowd. We were warmly suggested two welcome drinks by our smiling server- a sparkling cucumber and mint sangria (Rs. 500) and a chocolate and Tangerine Martini (Rs.700), for starters we had a roasted pepper and camembert crostini (Rs.320) and a prawn calamari lemon and coriander ajillo. While the sparkling sangria was quite refreshing due to the freshness of cucumber and mint, the chocolate martini was an interestingly sweet yet strong drink which could be a very good after dinner cocktail. The crostini was quite forgettable but the ajillo with the calamari was divine. It is quite tricky to cook calamari, if it is not cooked properly, it can become quite chewy like rubber, but here at Saltwater Café, not only the prawns and the calamari were fresh, but were cooked perfectly; the calamaris were soft with a melt in mouth feel.
Post this we tried a dirty martini (Rs.700) with Muddled Olives, Jalapenos and pineapples but I had to send it back as the jalapenos used in the drink were of the canned variety and the oily feel of the brine could be felt through the drink. All was not lost though, as the main course and dessert that followed put all the criticism at rest. We tried the baked vegetable lasagna with tomato fondue (Rs. 410) and the signature pan seared John Dory with sundried tomatoes and sunflower risotto (Rs. 750). The lasagne was good, it was quite the usual and common. The perfectly cooked John Dory was a treat to the senses – moist, juicy and flavourful fish on a bed of creamy rich sunflower risotto. The sunflower risotto is a must have and I wish that the management puts it on the menu as a side as well. My vegetarian companion was so impressed by the risotto that she left her lasagne and polished off my risotto despite my attempts to get a restraining order.
The dessert of Baileys crème brulee was an interesting end to a memorable dinner. The brulee was crisp and firm and crackled when we scooped into the dish and what followed was creamy goodness with a soft hint of coffee liqueur. We couldn’t have found a better ending to our meal.
I would certainly give full marks to the team of Saltwater Café, for keeping the taste and quality of their dishes quite consistent. Drinks are quite good and well thought of. The menu has been so designed that it appeals to both the young and the old and during my visit I saw a fair mix of both age groups thriving the restaurant. The feel good ambience of the restaurant adds to its benefit and it reflects in the fact that despite it being a Tuesday, the restaurant was packed to its core and people were waiting to be seated.
Good location, great food, positive ambience and friendly service; the restaurant has all the elements that would quickly make it a name to reckon with in the area, provided both the food and the service remain consistent. All in All, the branch at Bandra has raised the bar quite high and the one in Church Gate is not far behind to follow up on its tradition of fine food.
Ratings (Out of 5)
Food: 4.0 | Ambience: 4.0 | Service: 4.0 | Overall: 4.0
Meal for two: Rs 2500 | Credit Card: Yes | Alcohol: Yes
Address: 82, Nagin Mahal, Veer Nariman Road, Opposite Gaylords, Churchgate, Mumbai | Phone: 022-66336070
