The age old Dhaba at The Claridges has stepped out of the hotel premises, with two outposts at Saket and Cyberhub in Gurgaon. And I am here to check out the food at the Saket outlet.
As I enter, I find that the offsprings now have a lighter, more fun ambience. The décor is consciously kitsch, and dominated by various desi components. So what we have are interiors with nalka chandeliers, nimbu-mirchi lights, vintage Bollywood posters, truck art elements and an actual truck at that one can enjoy a meal on – all juxtaposed with the masala of Bollywood.
I meet the architect behind the new Dhaba retail experience at the door itself. Ravi Saxena, the corporate Chef of Claridges Hotels has worked hard to create a menu that he is justifiably proud of. This is a menu which is far livelier and yet lighter, specially designed to appeal to the younger generation. The same playfulness that one sees in the décor is very much present in the menu too.
The Chef takes me through the menu which has been separated into three parts; tawa, tandoor and patila. The bar is
appropriately called Theka and has many interesting cocktails with a desi twist which are called tharra. It is these that I decide to sample first. Somras is a passionate drink of guava juice with mint, basil and vodka base (all cocktails are for Rs 245), Basanti is refreshingly not a sweet cocktail, but has a refreshing mix of cucumber chunks, mint, and basil in a gin base. Toofan is an aggressive cocktail mix of Guava juice, fresh coriander, and spices and Santri is a version of Bloody Mary with fresh orange juice, chat masala, and vodka. With the system well lubricated, it is time to dive headlong into the intensive food tasting that Chef Saxena has put together.
The food is uniformly good. So for the ease of my dear readers, let me divide the dishes into those you must order in your first visit, and dishes you can order if and when you want more.
First the dishes you must order the first time. Bhune aloo (Rs 325) has baby potatoes grilled in the tandoor, pressed with the thumb (like they do in aloo tikki) topped with chat masala, spices and chopped onions. It is an adorable dish. Dhaba murgh roast (Rs 425) has baby chicken not weighing more than 600 grams in a simple yet most appropriate marination of hung curds and ginger garlic. The only colour this dish gets is the charring from the tandoor. Excellent stuff. Amritsari aloo vadi (Rs 375) is authentic enough to make me remember my nani. The Chef asks me how I would like my Brain masala (Rs 445), and I immediately say “chunky’. What I get on the table is a dish cooked just right – a creamy, brainy treat. Kanastari baingan bhartha (Rs 425) is smoky deliciousness, and really addictive. Phirnee (Rs 245) is among the best I have had, and rabri (Rs 245) is memorable. What melts my heart is the soft, steaming hot gulab jamuns (Rs 245).
Now to the dishes you can order in subsequent visits. Bun omelet (Rs 175) transports straight to the hungry broke
University days. Balti Meat (Rs 525), Daal Dhaba (Rs 375) and Mutton Seekh (Rs 425) are classics straight out of the parent Dhaba’s menu and are good. Dhaba prawns (Rs 995) are huge, juicy, succulent and quite enjoyable.
If you stick around long enough, you can also witness the staff breaking into a dance to ‘Badtameez Dil’. It is a trend started by Pizza Hut I think, and the life of the service staff will never be the same again!
What endears me to Dhaba is the simple rustic tastes and fun atmosphere. I will be back soon.
Ratings out of 5
Food: 4.0 | Ambience: 4.0 | Service: 4.0 |Overall: 4.0