Despite its location – in the casual hangout Epicuria, famous for its food court and fast food joints – Fio Cookhouse has maintained its fine dine appeal.
We are introduced to the chef’s winter menu on a sunny December afternoon. I am led from the pebbled patio, with al fresco seating, into luxe interiors. The high ceiling and wall-to-wall library that fluidly shifts from a liquor cabinetry to a culinary archive and eventually into a food cabinetry are the highlights of this space. The interiors are seamlessly divided into two sections – a lounge with low tables and a bar area and a restaurant section. Dappled sunlight streams in through glass walls and I can’t help but wonder why we’re sitting indoors on such a gorgeous day.
After a rather long wait, we are served the amuse bouche – Rum Flamed Cured Cheese with Stuffed Olives. The subtle flavour and the hint of rum is enough to whet the appetite. But alas! There’s an even longer wait for the soup and salad to arrive. The arrival of the “double shot” of the Prawn Minestrone offers a respite to the rumble in the tummy. Essentially a delicious tomato broth with orzo pasta, cannellini beans, vegetables and chunks of prawns, the soup would have been better if it was served piping hot. Then comes the Duet of Smoked Salmon Salad with white onion, capers, baby greens and cherry tomatoes tossed in a ricotta herb dressing. The liberal helping of salmon does justice to the name of this salad.
As the starters are circulated, I opt for the vegetarian selection giving the Baked Fish Pezzi, Shrimp Casalingi and Glazed Chicken Pops a miss. And am I glad! The Baked Cheesy Mushroom Baby Potato oozes with cheesy goodness and is flavoured with jalapenos, sour cream and chives. The Shredded Burrata Soft Butter Bun melts in the mouth leaving a perfect balance of peppery rocket and tangy sundried tomato on the palate. This turns out to be the most delicious part of my meal. While I can easily have more of this yummy bun, I have to save space for the main course and desserts.
Have I mentioned that each course is offered with an accompanying wine or a cocktail? Although I refrain from alcohol on this particular day, it would be safe for me suggest that if you like a good selection of wine with your food, Fio Cookhouse is certainly a worthy option.
I then have a tough decision to make choosing my main. While both the Basil Lime Steamed River Sole and Grilled Garlic Thyme Chicken sound fab, I go for the Braised Pepper Lamb with chilli garlic pepper jus. The warmth of flavours and the slow cooked lamb is ideal for warming you up. The lamb is very tender and easily comes off the bone. I also like that the accompanying barley risotto adds a healthy angle to this dish. Barley being a healthier grain than the traditionally used Arborio rice, I like the creaminess and overall texture and taste of this accompaniment.
Fortunately, I don’t need to make a choice for dessert. The dessert sampler includes Tiramisu, Viennese Raspberry Choco Mousse and the signature Orange Baked Cheesecake….and because this tasting is done a few days prior to Christmas, we are even treated to some decadent plum pudding. I personally like the plum pudding the most. Somehow, all the other three desserts lack the lightness that is important to balance out the richness.
So do I recommend that you try the new menu at Fio Cookhouse? Absolutely! Head here for a relaxed meal with a group of friends or even as a cosy twosome. Take your pick from sitting in the buzzy outdoors or the sophisticated indoors. And with the wide choice in the menu, I’m sure you’ll find enough dishes that’ll hit the spot for you.
Ratings (Out of 5)
Food: 3.5 | Drinks: 3.5 | Ambience: 4.0 | Service: 3.0 | Overall: 3.5
Meal for Two: Rs. 2,500 (Without alcohol) | Credit Cards: Yes | Alcohol: Yes | Timings: 11 am – 1 am.
Address: Fio Cookhouse, Epicuria, Nehru Place, New Delhi | Telephone: 011 2628 1026
Disclaimer: This review was done on an invitation from the restaurant. Due judgement and care has been applied by the author to remain objective and unbiased in the review, but readers need to consider this review keeping this fact in mind.
