Pluck, a modern take on fine dining where stuffy, stiff upper lip is replaced by freshness, artistry and warmth is the new nouvelle cuisine restaurant at Hotel Pullman, Aero city. The glow and freshness that permeates in the décor is duplicated in its food offerings, which in itself is an attempt to bring finesse and panache to casual dining. The table service is sourced from European firms specializing in custom catering to high-end restaurants abroad, and serves as a canvas for the chef to paint his masterstrokes.
Farm to fork idea that is fast catching up in our culinary milieu is reminiscent of JIT (just in time) manufacturing followed by leading businesses of the world. At Pluck, food is prepared as practicably as possible, by using freshly grown vegetables and herbs from the not too modest patch of in house garden at the Pullman’s. So, you are welcomed by a crunchy swathe of fresh lettuce literally plucked just then from the garden and served with the chef’s mayonnaise of the day. The first evening, it was a Japanese herb flavoured one and on the second anonymous visit, the sauce ‘curried” flavour. Amuse bouche was an exquisite Chilled Melon and Watermelon soup on the first visit and subsequently, a Diced Apple and Cucumber chilled salad garnished with olive dust. The crusty breads came with tiny bricks of Parsley and Olive coated butter, made to look like loamy soil with tendrils sprouting out of it, a detail that is simply, art.
The much-acclaimed Burnt Garlic Parmesan soup lived up to its claim, the creamy leek flavoured soup enhanced by the sharp Parmesan, Oatmeal strudel and Melba roll. The Belgian Pork Belly was first class and was ordered and enjoyed both times, pan roasted to a crisp crackling over soft meat suffused by burnt butter, pork jus and capers. The Atlantic Black Cod tasted divine, decorated with candied orange, flaking off seductively on a bed of stewed lentils flavoured with madeira juice and burnt butter. Grilled sous-vide Chicken drizzled with morel juice was made alluring by sweet and sticky, shredded purple cabbage. Scallop Carpaccio packed a wallop in flavours, thinly sliced and served appetizingly chilled with truffle and fresh, juicy orange pieces and freshly squeezed jus.
Keen to try one of the few modernized local dishes presented with a nouvelle touch, I eagerly ordered the Sukka Mutton on Parmesan biscuits. I shall not sing paeans to it save mentioning that the lean mutton dish with not a shred of fat or cartilage, took me on a nostalgic trip reminding me of the mutton fry of my granny’s. The Gorgonzola and Spinach Falafel was the one that did not impress, bland but done artfully. The citrus butter served alongside did help it slide in with a flourish, though.
Simply look no further than at Baked Gulab Jamun Crème Brulee for a scintillating finish to a fantabulous meal. Dark milk Chocolate Mousse might have stood a chance, eaten alone. But here it was completely over-shadowed by the fried Indian dessert served in a different form with layered burnt caramelized cream and candied sugar.
The restaurant was sparsely patronized on both my visits despite its fantastic food thanks to a much awaited but not yet got liquor license. But Pling, the hotel’s bar did serve some interesting mocktails, one with bell peppers and galangal and another with apple juice and strawberries.
Service was commendable and food presentation was a feast for the eyes. But food was more tapas size and costly in price. One’s hunger could not be satiated with a three-course meal not withstanding generous servings of delicious bread, fresh green salads and mouth watering amuse bouche. One suggestion could be to have a half portion and a full portion and charge accordingly. If the restaurant can strike that sweet spot between food portion, presentation, and price, it shall sweep the NCR food circuit like summer breeze over a field of honeysuckle.
Timings: 06.30 am -11.30 pm | Meal for two without alcohol: ~5000/++ | Alcohol: licence awaited | Disabled friendly: Yes | Cuisine: European
Address: Restaurant PLUCK, Hotel Pullman, Aero City, Asset no. 02, GMR Hospitality District, IGI Airport, New Delhi 110037 | Tel: +91 11 46080835
(Disclosure: This review was done after an invited tasting session followed by an anonymous visit to the restaurant with food paid for by the reviewer.
Pluck, a modern take on fine dining where stuffy, stiff upper lip is replaced by freshness, artistry and warmth is the new nouvelle cuisine restaurant at Hotel Pullman, Aero city. The glow and freshness that permeates in the décor is duplicated in its food offerings, which in itself is an attempt to bring finesse and panache to casual dining. The table service is sourced from European firms specializing in custom catering to high-end restaurants abroad, and serves as a canvas for the chef to paint his masterstrokes.
Farm to fork idea that is fast catching up in our culinary milieu is reminiscent of JIT (just in time) manufacturing followed by leading businesses of the world. At Pluck, food is prepared as practicably as possible, by using freshly grown vegetables and herbs from the not too modest patch of in house garden at the Pullman’s. So, you are welcomed by a crunchy swathe of fresh lettuce literally plucked just then from the garden and served with the chef’s mayonnaise of the day. The first evening, it was a Japanese herb flavoured one and on the second anonymous visit, the sauce ‘curried” flavour. Amuse bouche was an exquisite Chilled Melon and Watermelon soup on the first visit and subsequently, a Diced Apple and Cucumber chilled salad garnished with olive dust. The crusty breads came with tiny bricks of Parsley and Olive coated butter, made to look like loamy soil with tendrils sprouting out of it, a detail that is simply, art.
The much-acclaimed Burnt Garlic Parmesan soup lived up to its claim, the creamy leek flavoured soup enhanced by the sharp Parmesan, Oatmeal strudel and Melba roll. The Belgian Pork Belly was first class and was ordered and enjoyed both times, pan roasted to a crisp crackling over soft meat suffused by burnt butter, pork jus and capers. The Atlantic Black Cod tasted divine, decorated with candied orange, flaking off seductively on a bed of stewed lentils flavoured with madeira juice and burnt butter. Grilled sous-vide Chicken drizzled with morel juice was made alluring by sweet and sticky, shredded purple cabbage. Scallop Carpaccio packed a wallop in flavours, thinly sliced and served appetizingly chilled with truffle and fresh, juicy orange pieces and freshly squeezed jus.
Keen to try one of the few modernized local dishes presented with a nouvelle touch, I eagerly ordered the Sukka Mutton on Parmesan biscuits. I shall not sing paeans to it save mentioning that the lean mutton dish with not a shred of fat or cartilage, took me on a nostalgic trip reminding me of the mutton fry of my granny’s. The Gorgonzola and Spinach Falafel was the one that did not impress, bland but done artfully. The citrus butter served alongside did help it slide in with a flourish, though.
Simply look no further than at Baked Gulab Jamun Crème Brulee for a scintillating finish to a fantabulous meal. Dark milk Chocolate Mousse might have stood a chance, eaten alone. But here it was completely over-shadowed by the fried Indian dessert served in a different form with layered burnt caramelized cream and candied sugar.
Service was commendable and food presentation was a feast for the eyes. But food was more tapas size and costly in price. One’s hunger could not be satiated with a three-course meal not withstanding generous servings of delicious bread, fresh green salads and mouth watering amuse bouche. One suggestion could be to have a half portion and a full portion and charge accordingly. If the restaurant can strike that sweet spot between food portion, presentation, and price, it shall sweep the NCR food circuit like summer breeze over a field of honeysuckle.
