It was still dark when we stepped out of our taxi outside NDLS. We were about to board a train which has become a matter of national pride to travel to a city which is as much at the centre of Hinduism and spirituality as it is in Indian politics.
You can read a detailed account of our train travel here : https://indianfoodfreak.com/2023/10/29/vande-bharat-train-my-experience/
As a first-time visitor to Varanasi, the experience is nothing short of visceral amalgamation of authenticity and spirituality. With each heartbeat, you’re fully absorbed in an intensely vivid rainbow of experiences. From the moment you arrive, the city embraces you with an enigmatic energy that’s invigoratingly chaotic yet soothing.
We stayed at a highly rated Air bnb, minutes away from Assi Ghat. There were positives and negatives to our stay. Its close proximity to the ghat was the biggest positive. However, there is no lift for the apartment on the second floor. So, if you going with someone elderly, be prepared. Another grouse I have is about the barest minimum in terms of facilities such as toiletries that they provided.
Day 1 Varanasi
Even though we reached Banaras after a long train ride and hit our hotel only at 3.30pm, we still managed to check out a few places in the evening.
Our journey started from Assi Ghat with the first halt at Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe. Known as first Pizzeria in India and opened in 1992, this place over looks the ganga. Amazing vibe but that’s it. The pizza was a complete disappointment. They got everything wrong – dough, cheese and the sauce. Thankfully apple pie with the ice cream was much better. Though not warm, apple pie was tasty. Service was with the smile though with no understanding of the food.
Find of the day today was lemon tea with kaala namak and some masala sold at various street vendors. Hajmedaar and delicious. At Rs10, this was a steal.
We walked across atleast 30-40 ghats to exit from Dashashwamegh ghat. Temples were closed today due to some grahan. From there we tried a thandai which is decent. Not bad nor must try.
The biggest disappointment today was Kashi Chaat Bhandaar. Unchi dukaan Feeka Pakwaan. Huge lines to get into, owner who kept fighting with some of his guest and most of his employee, and substandard tikki and even tamatar chaat. That lemon and tamatar khataas was totally missing. All I could eat was the aloo in tamatar chaat. Kulfi faluda wasn’t bad but seriously who serves kulfi as a whole without cutting it into pieces?
I found a lot of helpful people from auto waala to boat waala and others. As Iay in bed, my ears were still echoing the honking, shouting and the traffic. I fell asleep with the hopes a better experience the next day.
Day 2 and first half of day 3 at Varanasi
These two days were much better in terms of food barring a small glitch.
Someone told us to start the day with kachori aloo at Madhu at assi ghat chowk. What happened to most tourists, we also got the same taste. Instead of Madhu Bahar we landed at Madhu Sagar, a shop just adjacent where as expected it was an average experience. However we corrected the mistake for next day’s breakfast and tried Madhu Bahar. Excellent crisp poori filled with urad dal and hing. Aloo had pieces of cauliflower and even paneer. As just Rs40 per plate with 4 kachodi (yes poori are called kachodi here perhaps because of pithi). Even ras malai was good here topped with rabdi. Owner said that only their shop serves ras malai with rabdi and sells at just Rs30/pc
Day 3
The day ended with lassi from Blue Lassi. The colour of the shop is blue hence it is called so not because lassi is blue.
However the more important thing to note is I had the most amazing tamatar chaat at Deena Chaat at Nariyal Bazaar. A right mix of gulab jamun chaasni with nimbu and aloo along with nimki for crunch. This 80 year old shop says they have no branch. Perhaps brothers split. This Tamatar Chaat in comparison is so superior to Kashi Chaat Bhandaar that I won’t even compare Gold to Dust. Even their palak patta chaat is amazing. Dahi Vada was average and Tikki & golgappa were decent.
Day 4.
Signing off from Varanasi with Subah E Benaras at Assi Ghat. This includes Arti with Sanskrit shlokes, music and a visual delight while watching the sunrise. Then a small boat ride till Dashashwamegh ghat and back.
Wife was still sleeping and at 7am there were carts selling dosa, idly etc and I saw someone eating idly and I couldn’t resist it. Trust me I couldn’t believe it when the vendor asked me for a mere Rs20 for a delicious plate which was followed with healthy nariyal paani.
Then we went to Chachi ki Dukan for kachodi aloo. Hole in the wall kind of place but adjacent shop allows sitting on the canister to enjoy this crisp, no onion-garlic treat. Pehalwan lassi was nearby but was too full to have anything more in the morning.
The narrow, labyrinth-like lanes in Varanasi, thrumming with life lead you to the mighty Ghats. The sandstone embankments by the holy Ganges, the ceaseless hum of prayers, and the infinite lamps floating on the river at dusk transform this city into a theatre of spirituality.
Varanasi is not just a city, it’s a stirring symphony of devotion, life, and culture etched seamlessly into the annals of time. Witnessing the daily ritual of Ganga Aarti is a sublime experience that leaves you with goosebumps, the resonance of the mantra chants echoing in your heart long after you’ve left. Exploring the local market and its unique offerings, you realize how each alleyway brims with stories, painted vividly by sights, sounds, smells, and tastes. There’s a tantalizing austerity within the city’s inherent chaos, creating a sense of balance that sets Varanasi apart from any other place on Earth.
This wasn’t just any trip. This was an experience. A journey through time, culture and traditions.
