Braving peak hour traffic and annoying parking woes, my companion and I reached the ristorante in GK-2, New Delhi, a spent force. But what lay inside, invigorated our tired souls. A cosily set restaurant with warm lighting, monochrome pictures on the walls and an expanse of glass on one side to create an illusion of larger than life space, was welcoming enough. 
Oscar Balcon, the man behind Artusi and Gurprinder Balcon, the woman behind the man, have succeeded in bringing an artisanal touch to Italian fine dining in NCR. Boasting of home style recipes mainly from the Emilia Romagna region, considered the gastronomical and culinary capital of Italy, the food served is robust and distinctive with a panache that comes from the flavours and ingredients used. Think Parma Ham, Parmesan Cheese, Modena Balsamic Vinegar, Pasta Bolognese etc. With the Emilia Romagna region boasting of celebrity artists like Luciano Pavarotti (opera tenor), Fellini (cinema), Verdi (author), Pascoli (poet), and Toscannini, it is no wonder that at Artusi, food is transformed into an art form.
Chilled Prosecco ushered in an array of appetizers. Tomino was an eyeful as much as a divine mouthful with the baked, melted Camembert smothered with truffle oil scented mushrooms. The smoked salmon topped Crostini al Salmone with avocado, bell pepper and cherry tomatoes with avocado foam was an extravagant bite but the onion in it outsmoked the smoked fish in my opinion. But Oscar assured me that the combination is a tried and tested one back home. 
Crostini ai Fegatini with chicken pate and caramelized onions was much appreciated by my companion though I gave it a go-by as I am averse to anything related to liver. The dulcet dressing of citrus fruit juices, the tang of capers and the aroma of fresh oregano and fennel added an exotic and pleasant taste to the sashimi grade tuna in Tonno Carpaccio. Tartafutta, a summer special of fresh salad leaves drizzled with truffle oil served on a Parmesan cheese filigree basket, was refreshing but what took the cake or should I say the salad bowl was the Ferro Salad – the most tender, pungent arugula teased by grapes and slices of crisp pears and topped with goat cheese and toasted pine nuts- delightful ! This is surely a not to be missed salad.
Pasta lovers – look no further than at Artusi for your carb fix, a healthy one at that. The variety, choices and flavours accompanied by a dry Sauvignon Blanc were simply superb. Raviolo (hand-made square shaped pasta with the usual spinach and ricotta stuffing) was made unusual by the rich yet light butter, sage and asparagus sauce. Tortello, a smooth talking pumpkin and potato number, was given elan by the vivacious Gorgonzola sauce. 
Mezzelune Calamari was a distant cousin to the rest with the calamari a bit chewy while the quaintly hat shaped Cappelleto Carbonara did not fail to please with its cheesy filling and traditional egg, cream sauce. Tortellini with cured meat filling accompanied by Bolognese sauce was tangy, tasty and hearty. Fettucine Nera al Salmon (the pasta stained by black squid ink) had an unusual texture with the pasta clumped together but perhaps not done sufficiently al dente to achieve the desired level of “clumpiness”. Instead of the distinctly flavoured salmon, I would have preferred shellfish, prawns, etc. to go in tandem with the delicate flavour of the dark pasta. My favourite, Gnocchi Quattro Formaggi, was delicious. Risotto Zafferano was exquisitely flavoured with golden saffron and Parmesan cheese.
Having loaded ourselves with so much carbs, we had to decline the flamboyantly presented grilled Belgian Pork chops served with French fries tossed in truffle oil which is temptingly called Braciola Di Maiale. We simply could not eat any more.
Yet, we did not have the heart (and the palate) to refuse the excellent Panna Cotta served with toasted almonds and figs. But what captured it was the tri-coloured SemiFreddodello Chef, a semi-frozen dessert that reminded us of our very own Kulfi with pistachio nuts, candied fruits and caramelised orange zest. I would have loved to taste TortaBarrozi, (“an intense chocolate cake made with almonds, coffee, cocoa and peanuts”) which is not featured in the menu but is a specialty of the region. Will the genial, ever-chuckling chef Romina Lugaresi oblige?
Much has been said about the excellence and authenticity of food at Artusi and our experience only went to reinforce that view. Having refrained from Indianisation of its dishes for the sake of business and growth, Artusi still commands a loyal and exuberant niche following. Prices are high – comparable to five star ones. As Oscar explained to us, a lot of effort is being put in to the sourcing and vetting of original ingredients for the restaurant by a picky, discerning and low tolerance purchase policy. A sparkling Prosecco bottle is sold at a modest Rs. 2,600/- tells much about the comparative low margins on wine.
Artusi is in the vanguard of niche, boutique type standalone restaurants that are common in western countries but whose time is yet to arrive in ours. If consistency is maintained in food quality and service, it shall play an exemplary role in the NCR culinary scene.
Ratings (Out of 5)
Food: 4.5 | Service: 4.5 | Ambience: 4.0 | Overall: 4.5
Timings: Restaurant: 12.00 noon-11.30 pm; Bar: until 01.00 am
Cuisine: Specialty Restaurant/ Italian | Meal for two without alcohol: 4000/++ | Credit Card: Yes | Alcohol: Yes | Wheelchair Access : No
Address: ARTUSI Ristorante e Bar, M24, M-Block Market, Greater Kailash II, New Delhi- 110048 | Tel: 011-49066666
Disclosure: This review was done at the invitation of the restaurant. Readers’ discretion is recommended even though due diligence has been observed in keeping the review as objective as possible.
